On the exterior of the enclosure I thoroughly sanded all exposed edges with 100 grit and then 220 grit sandpaper to remove machining marks. The top was sanded until the joints between the individual pieces could no longer be felt.

To seal up the thirsty MDF two coats of dewaxed shellac were applied with a foam brush. After each coats I sanded with 220 grit sand paper. (Image 3) Next I applied Zinnser Cover Hide oil based primer with a foam roller. The primer was tinted gray in preparation for the dark top coat. (Image 4) The foam roller left a slight texture as expected.

The shellac did a fine job of sealing up the MDF edges because the first coat of primer covered very well. However, the first coat of primer showed several places that needed some filling and the seams between the top pieces were slightly showing. After filling a couple dents with spackle and sanding with 220 grit paper, I applied a second coat of primer. The defects were taken care of but the laminated top was still faintly showing so another coat of primer was applied.

For the color coat I applied a charcoal black acrylic enamel from Sherwin Williams with a foam roller. The first coat was rather splotchy, but the second coat evened out. (Image 5)

To provide a durable finish two coats of Zip Guard polyurethane were applied after the enamel was dry, and several coats of wax were applied with a synthetic steel wool pad.


the Bases

The enclosures sit on triple layer MDF bases which partially recess into the undersides of the enclosures creating a gap between the enclosure and base. The bases are attached with four socket head cap screws that thread into inserts in the underside of each enclosure. The bases were finished with the same method as the enclosures. Carpet spikes or rubber feet may easily be attached to the underside of the bases. (Images 6 & 7)


the Side Panels

The original model shows cherry side panels. However, to match other furniture in our living room I made the side panels from ¼” birch plywood. (Image 8) The four pieces were ripped to about 1/16” less than the 6” width recess in the sides of the enclosure and cut to length. After sanding, three coats of Zip Guard polyurethane were applied. (Image 9)

Part of the reason for finishing the side panels separate from the enclosure is to allow the side panels to be changed in the future. The side panels are attached to the enclosure with double sided carpet tape. The tape holds very well if the pieces being taped are compressed with a clamp for a few seconds after being joined. If the panels are to be removed a putty knife can be used to slide between the panels, at the bottom edge of the enclosure, and the panel pried away from the enclosure.


the Crossovers

The crossovers were built to Curt's specifications. The components were adhered to a small block of MDF with epoxy. The block is attached to the back panel, just above the opening for the port tube, with button head cap screws that thread into inserts in the back panel. (Image 10)


Component Installation

The speakers are mounted with black button head screws that engage the threaded inserts installed in the front panel of the enclosure. To seal the speakers I cut pieces of 1/16” thick foam rings to use as gaskets. I found the sheets of foam at a Pat Katan craft store. The terminal cup on the rear of the enclosures came with a foam gasket and is also mounted with button head screws.

To achieve the required port length a 90 degree ABS elbow is used. A short piece of ABS is epoxied to the back panel (Image 11) and the elbow attached to this short piece. A gasket for the back panel was made from the foam sheet mentioned above.


Finished

When we first listened to the speakers my wife said "where did all those sounds go with our old speakers?" That pretty much sums it up, these are the best speakers we have ever had! (Images 12, 13, 14)